I left the ashram with renewed strength that morning. A feeling of elation came over me as i walked downriver trying to find my way to the nearest ghat into town.
As i walked i saw a young man dipping his urn into the Ganges. He looked up at me and smiled. I smiled back and greeted him with Namaskar. I asked him where he was going in English and he seemed embarrassed to reply. He spoke in Hindi and from what i gathered he was going to the temple to do his morning oblation. I said "Me tumhare sat chalta hun." meaning I am coming with you. He nodded and we walked together. Something interested me about this particular individual and i wanted to find out why.
I had to quicken my pace as this tall fellow had long legs and seemed to be in a hurry. He walked all the while with a contented smile on his face. We passed a small temple on the way and i watched him stop, do an oblation and continue. I followed suit, a little shy that he may see the immaturity in my action.
We walked to the temple as the town started to come alive. The fruit and food vendors were all assembling their produce, doing the routine oblation. So interesting to watch. The majority of people here are deeply spiritual. Nothing is done in isolation. There is a deep connectivity here with all. The cows roam about so freely and are all part of life here. Intrinsically connected. Most small shop owners go to the Ganga in the morning and fetch her waters. They bring it back to the shop where a routine cleaning is done. Afterwards the lamp at the alter in the shop is lit and a small prayer is said. In a lot of shops a specific incense is then lit and spread throughout the shop to sanitize the air. It is highly hygienic. School kids play along the gullys as they make their way to school. Laughing and teasing each other. People are happy here. All of the noises, sights and smells reflect the life that the river brings.
We finally make it to our destination, a huge temple at the end of the road. It is a shiva temple. The man and i enter into the courts and it is filled with people all ready to do their morning oblations. He walks into the main hall and gives the presiding priest the jar of water. The priest thanks him, he does his prayer and leaves. The temple courts are filled with all sorts of people: workers, elders, children, housewives; each of them very sure of why they are here and what needs to be done. Each prostrating before some murti or the other. Each taking blessing from one of the many swamis in the temple. Each leaving in their own rhythm.
I went into the temple, touched the murti and left. As i walked outside, i saw an old swami sitting down at a corner with a smile on his face. I prostrate before the swami. He smiles at me and blesses me with a tilak ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tilaka ) and a red string around my hand. I thank him with a Rs10 and then i leave. I thank the man who brought me there and i make my way to the bus stand.
I reached the bus stand at around 8:00am. At the ticket office the official told me that the bus had left already at 7:00am and that i would get another bus at 1:00pm. The trip to Gangotri from Uttarkashi is around 6 hours by bus (according to Uma) I did not want to reach there too late as i had no itinerary for when i got there and felt i needed some daylight to better assess my options. I asked the official if there was another way and he said i could take a jeep (a mahindra 4x4) for about Rs120. He pointed in the direction of the jeeps and that was all i needed to know.
I thanked the official and made my way back into the town. I made my way in the direction and I asked at different shopkeepers: "Sahib, me Gangotri Jaara hun" (sir i am going to Gangotri) Two shopkeepers pointed toward the same direction, each of them narrowing down my search. Finally i got to my destination and said the same to one of the drivers of a jeep: "Sahib, me Gangotri Jaara hun" He pointed toward a jeep parked near a chai walla. There was a girl who looked to be in her teens in the front seat. She was well dressed and wore glasses. I noticed her reading a paper that was in English. I relaxed. Smiled at her and spoke in English. "Hello, how are you? I am going to Gangotri, is this the right jeep." She smiled. "I am alright, " she replied. "Yes this is the jeep that is going to Gangotri. We will leave once the jeep fills up."
I sat down at the back of the jeep and waited. I met a man in the taxi named Sunil Semwal. He was one seat in front of me. He had a very friendly composure and looked very calm and relaxed. I knew i would enjoy talking with this man. And i did. It turns out that Sunil is very familiar with Sri Sri Ravishankar, one of the Brahmagyani's that i have heard so much about and seen in a dream. So we had a lot to talk about. Sunil is 35 years of age and comes from a Brahmin family. He has 2 children, a boy and a girl and teaches in a school about 100kms south of Uttarkashi. He is also an engineer and from our conversation, is very well read and knowledgeable on matters pertaining to Brahmin duty like officiating at prayers, and he knows Sanskrit as well. More about Sunil, later. The last person jumped in. 10 people max. The driver revved the engine and we were off at 10:00am.
What an amazing journey. Every kilometer was an increase in altitude and also filled with breathtaking scenery. The air kept getting clearer, less people, less man-made structure. More nature, more beauty. We passed a town called Jhala. You could see it from the mountains. Jhala is famous for its apples, potatoes and a type of pulse called Rajma. We passed a town called Harsil. It was hidden in the hills, out of reach, stretched out between the Ganges and another great river joining it. The houses were made of wood and thatch. It looked very traditional, authentic and beautiful. I dont think i have come across another town that appealed to me as much as Harsil.
JhalaI felt like a kid on an excursion. I could not stop myself from sticking my head out the window and going: "Vaaa." (indian for wow ;)
